Japan Trivia: Osaka Prefecture’s steamy reputation as public bathhouse kingdom

Osaka Prefecture is an undiscovered “bathhouse kingdom” with the number of public baths, or “sento,” once peaking at over 2,300. Below, the Mainichi dips into some of the prefecture’s hot spots and related trivia.

Kotobuki Onsen: A glimpse of history captured in drama

In a residential district about seven minutes’ walk from JR Bentencho Station in the city of Osaka’s Minato Ward is Kotobuki Onsen, a “retro” public bath that was chosen as a filming location for the NHK serial drama “Boogie Woogie,” which ran from October 2023 to March 2024. The NHK program focuses on Shizuko Kasagi (1914-1985), a jazz singing star known for numbers including “Tokyo Boogie-Woogie.” Her parents previously ran a public bath in Osaka, where she is said to have spent her childhood.

Although Kotobuki Onsen, established in 1960, was not the actual bathhouse operated by Kasagi’s parents, it still retains elements from the time it was built, like the prestigious folded coffered ceiling in the changing rooms and stone baths. The bathhouse’s owner Hisaharu Imai, in his 60s, commented, “There are not many public baths left that retain an old-fashioned atmosphere. I hope people will warm themselves while enjoying it.”

Tatsumi Onsen: Osaka castle mosaic, sculptures create unique atmosphere

A tile mosaic that stretches across the men’s and women’s baths at Tatsumi Onsen in Osaka’s Fukushima Ward is a selling point of this public bathhouse. It depicts the keep of Osaka Castle surrounded by autumn leaves. The washing area also includes sculptures inspired by ancient Greek art, giving it a unique Western atmosphere.

The bathhouse’s predecessor is said to have opened in the Meiji era (1868-1912). The current operator, Iwao Sakamoto, and his wife, both in their 70s, purchased it from the previous owner in March 1978 and relaunched it as Tatsumi Onsen. It is in a residential district about 10 minutes’ walk from Noda Station on the Hanshin Electric Railway’s Main Line. It is flanked by shrines and a temple, and there are people who visit seeking blessings.

Sakamoto’s wife Haruko commented, “Public baths are places that light up the community and connect people. I hope people soaking in the large baths can recharge for the following day.”

Asahi Onsen: Staging events and creating smiles

Asahi Onsen in Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Ward is run by third-generation owner Masataka Tamaru, in his 40s, and his family. The facility holds live music and other events in the bathing area and lobby, and shows by the “kamishibai (storytelling with illustrated boards) idol” Okyan are popular. And thanks to donations from patrons, the bath holds “children’s sento” events allowing children to bathe free of charge on the first and third Sundays of every month.

“Public baths are places where you see others face-to-face,” said Tamaru. “This is a way of giving back to the community that raised us.”

Chidori Onsen and its alluring ‘mirror ads’

Chidori Onsen, in Osaka’s Konohana Ward, was founded in 1952. When Hideaki Katsura, a fan of public baths aged in his 50s, heard rumors that it was going to close, he quit his company job and took over the bathhouse in 2017.

The bathhouse features a tiled image of Mount Fuji, which is rare for a sento in Osaka. Many fans are drawn to its advertisements placed next to the mirrors with their personalized content and designs, even including “love letters.” The exterior is covered with murals created by domestic and international artists. Katsuura is into cycling, and so the bath has installed a storage space for road bikes. He says the public bath is “like a room with all my favorite things.”

Hot public bath trivia

Trademark yellow ‘Kerorin’ buckets not all equal in size

Visitors to public baths in Japan may have seen yellow bath buckets with katakana advertising for “Kerorin,” the name of a painkiller sold by a Japanese pharmaceutical firm. According to the firm, it is common at baths in western Japan’s Kansai region for bathers to scoop water directly from the bath. To make it easier to hold these trademark buckets in one hand, they are somewhat smaller than the ones in eastern Japan’s Kanto region.

Use of soft water a common feature in Osaka Prefecture’s public baths?

Soft water is said to offer skin benefits and be better at preventing dryness than regular tap water, so it is commonly used in Osaka’s public baths. Tap water is filtered through specialized equipment to make the water soft.

How is the water heated at public baths?

Various types of fuel are used to heat the boilers at public baths in Japan, from heavy oil to scrap wood and gas. Some use electricity to heat the water, but they are a minority. Fuel costs accordingly vary from one bathhouse to another. According to the Osaka prefectural cooperative of public bathhouse operators, water bills average 1 million yen (approx. $6,790) a month. Of course, this depends on the size and number of baths.

The changing colors of bath tickets

Common bath tickets, available in booklets of 10, are an economical option for those who frequently use public baths. The tickets change color every half year, so it’s easy to tell the expiry date. The tickets are marked with region names according to the various branches of the Osaka prefectural cooperative of public bathhouse operators, and some people apparently have fun collecting them.

(Mainichi)